Panda looks great! I see lots of ribbons coming her way :grin2:
OMG LEASHES!!! I am sooo awkward with it. I do walks with a 10 footer that has some weight on it and do pretty good. But the 6 foot leather the trainer asks us to use gets me all tripped up for some reason.
I use 6' leashes with all my guys for casual walks, and even for obedience, a 6' leash is fine. But there are so many rally moves where you have to pass the leash behind your back, from one hand to another, and if the leash gets tight, even for a split second, it's a 1 point deduction every time. I train my dogs competition heeling completely without leashes, so it's something we don't practice often until shortly before we have to go in the ring.
Oh, that was so good Karen and Panda! She is heeling beautifully! If you don't mind me asking, did you use a certain technique (book, video, persons) to teach her? I'm kinda stuck with Layla off leash and would really like to continue with Rally, but she's just not solid enough.
We start using "chin heeling", which is BRUTAL on the back with little dogs, but DOES produce about the prettiest heeling I've seen. But you really need to start it when the dog is a puppy. It's harder for older dogs to really internalize. We also use Denise Fenzi's "pocket hand". This takes some bending initially, but with little dogs, they pretty quickly get the idea of lining up under your hand. We do LOTS precision work on position, fronts, finishes, pivots. and heel one step, click reward.
We keep heeling training VERY short (only a few steps to start) mixed in with LOTS of play. We also spend a lot of time reinforcing the dog's ability to ""find heel" from anywhere. We send them away to circle a cone or fly pole, then turn and move away, so they need to hurry to catch up, then reward big time when they make an effort to get back.
Once they are more confirmed, and understand the game, we STILL keep it short. (remember, even a rally run is rarely more than 2 minutes of heeling, and that is all broken up. A formal obedience heel pattern is typically well under a minute) We also make it fun and unpredictable. Heel fast into a halt. Do a recall, and instead of a formal finish, immediately heel off. In the middle of heeling toss a cookie to the side, tell the dog "get it" and run away. Have a party when they "catch" you...
Here are "Pocket Hand" set-ups when Panda was well under a year:
Here's a short bit of "motivational heeling in class with Kodi one night:
Of course he's a much more experienced dog, but this gives you an idea what I'm talking about. We virtually NEVER work on "training" heeling on leash. If the dog doesn't choose to stay with us, it's our job to reinforce that desire by making heeling the most fun thing EVER! Kodi loves heeling so much at this stage that in training, I can use heeling as a reinforcer for getting something "hard" right.
Thanks so much for taking the time to explain this. I can see where I'm making some mistakes with her. I really like the video of the motivational heeling with Kodi. He also heels beautifully! I see where I need to shorten our heeling sessions and be more creative and spontaneous to keep her guessing. I love what you said in that last paragraph about never training heeling with a leash and making heeling the most FUN ever!
Also, that little, Miss Panda and her tail in the chin heeling video is the cutest ever! She is just sweetness through and through!
Thanks so much for taking the time to explain this. I can see where I'm making some mistakes with her. I really like the video of the motivational heeling with Kodi. He also heels beautifully! I see where I need to shorten our heeling sessions and be more creative and spontaneous to keep her guessing. I love what you said in that last paragraph about never training heeling with a leash and making heeling the most FUN ever!
Also, that little, Miss Panda and her tail in the chin heeling video is the cutest ever! She is just sweetness through and through!
Some more motivational heeling with both dogs last night!
Panda:
Note, that the time spent in both segments was quite short. With Kodi it was under two minutes, because he was more engaged, and I spent less time on getting the kind of heeling I wanted. Panda is less experienced, AND was a little sleepy. Her class is after Kodi's, and RIGHT at what would be supper time if we were home. I COULD have gotten much more engaged heeling immediately if I'd pulled out the food, but the whole point is to get that engagement through play. So with her, it was still under 2 1/2 minutes.
Thanks so much for sharing these videos too, Karen :smile2: They have all been so helpful and I really appreciate your willingness to share! Tonight I tried some motivational heeling with Layla and it went really well, yay! I took her to a tennis court at one of our parks where I could have her off leash, but safe and there being plenty of distractions. I kept it short and took her rabbit on a bungee toy (I always forget it and need to use it more), she did great and was surprisingly attentive and looking at me. It was awesome to have her back and engaged again! Although, tonight I was using some food I wanted to just get her excited about working again and we can move towards less food in the future. Maybe having some time off after the show has been a good thing.
Thanks for sharing the videos. What toy were you using? Was it all one toy, long furry rope with stuffed animal at end, or was it something you rigged up? Your instructor said something like, "Not all dogs like to tug, but they'll chase." That's Shama, much more interested in chasing things that move than she is in hanging on to something I'm tugging. I have a hard time motivating Shama with anything other than treats. Did Kodi have his hair tied back? I coudn't tell . . .
That particular toy is one from Denise Fenzi. It's a piece of real rabbit fur on the end of a long, nylon handle. But I have others I'ce made myself. It doesn't matter as long as it's something your dog likes and you can control. For instance, you shouldn't use a ball unless you are POSITIVE your dog will bring it back to you EVERY time.
My guys aren't big tuggers either. But they do love the chase! I think Esther was pointing that out because there are a couple of new people in our class with softish Shelties. We also have a Terv and 3 retrievers, who have a VERY strong tug. I think she wanted the new people to understand that this play style was fine too... It's all about what YOUR dog enjoys!
Toy play and personal play is definitely something that needs to be developed... But it is SO worthwhile! It's easy to turn into a walking Pez dispenser... and we can't take food into the ring. Even in those venues where you CAN have food in the ring, like CDSP and WCRL, you can only use the food at the end of an exercise. How long does it take dogs to figure that out? NOT long!!! Toy play can be a bridge between food and personal play, and the end goal is personal play. You ALWAYS have that with you in the ring!
When you are starting to use play rather than food, especially with an adult dog initially trained just on cookies, some dogs think, "What did I do wrong? I'm not getting any cookies?!?!" You need to go into a play session with NO cookies on your body, and the determination that ALL you are going to use is play. Then you work to find what your dog likes, do one TINY bit of "work" (maybe JUST a set-up) then play again and be done for that session. For a lot of very food motivated dogs, the minute food comes out, that's ALL they want to work for. Kodi has worked for food AND play for a long time now, and Panda has done it from the very beginning. So both are pretty good switching back and forth. But under stress, they will both work much more easily for food than play. We keep working on building those "play" muscles!
And yes, my dogs' hair is ALWAYS tied back when they work. Even at home, if we're having a "lazy day"and haven't groomed, and I want to train something, I'll quickly pull their hair back in a terry band.
Yes, I got Shama one of those stretchy little balls which is all frame, and I found she's interested in it only when it has a big piece of turkey jerkey put inside (after stretching the openings). Even then, she doesn't bring it back to me. Fetch is another skill we still need to work on!
Thanks for all your valuable advice. I need to work on the toy and personal play!
If you really want it to be play, though, it can't be because she wants to get food out of it. Then the food is the reward and the ball is only an obstacle or challenge to get though. What dog in his or her right mind would want to bother bringing the ball BACK after they get their precious jerky out of it! That's why toys on a rope or string are better, because you don't relinquish control. They can play with you with the toy, or you put the toy away. Simple as that.
She can't actually get the jerky out without a lot of hard work, because my DH and I stretch the ball enough to put a big piece of jerky in; once the ball regains its shape, the jerky can't fall out or be pulled out. It would have to be nibbled. Now it's my go-to distractor when I put her in the crate at agility practice and want her to not bark to get out. Doesn't really work for that either. Still need to work on our crate games per Susan Garrett . . .
That sounds like a good use for it... sort of like a "super Kong". But not as a toy for play as a reward for work. She's still TRYING to get the food out, not enjoying it as a "toy" in and of itself.
And, yes, Crate Games will for sure help with the crate barking! But you are doing the right thing by persevering. It is SO important for dogs to get to AT LEAST accept crating when needed, better if they get to really like it. Even Panda at this point will nap in her crate at a trial or training party, so she is rested and fresh when it's her turn.
At agility class, I click and treat in the back of the crate when she's lying quietly. But I can only do that when I'm waiting my turn, not when I'm out helping set up the obstacles or listening to the instructor. That's when she's barking . . . I don't leave her in the crate too long when we're waiting our turn. I'm trying to build up her stamina.
When I did Crate Games with Kodi, I did it at home, in a quiet environment at first, when I didn't have any oressure to do anything but concentrate on training my dog. I didn't really need to do "formal" Crate Games training with either of the firls, becuase they just sort of learned from being next to Koid. Sort of "this is what we all do, side-by-side, no big deal". Sometimes an older sibling is a big help!
I just found this thread. Make me wish mine are puppies so I can try this right. As is I tried it with Zelda and she quickly figures out putting her head in my hand loop gets a treat. Not "chin" resting but maybe that's ok? Link being the more forceful dog tends to push and stick his nose around the front of my thigh to get to my right hand (treats).
I'll try to keep this up as much as possible and see if I can get it to work. Thanks for the instruction.
If you hold your "loop" hand a little higher, she will have to rest her chin in your hand, and you want her head fairly high. As you transition away from having your hand down there, you want the dog to heel in a "heads up" position, looking toward your face.
As far as Link "pushing you" is concerned, again, having your "loop" hand higher will make that harder for him. LOCK your fingers against your pant seam and don't ALLOW him to push that hand further forward. Your're bigger than he is!
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