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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-28-2017, 09:35 PM
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Thanks so much for taking the time to explain this. I can see where I'm making some mistakes with her. I really like the video of the motivational heeling with Kodi. He also heels beautifully! I see where I need to shorten our heeling sessions and be more creative and spontaneous to keep her guessing. I love what you said in that last paragraph about never training heeling with a leash and making heeling the most FUN ever!

Also, that little, Miss Panda and her tail in the chin heeling video is the cutest ever! She is just sweetness through and through!

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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-28-2017, 09:46 PM
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I love these leashes! I have a 4', 5', and 6' one and they are really lightweight, but strong. The lady does a beautiful job on them. I didn't have any of the bling put on mine (i don't want it getting in my way), but you could.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/BestInShow..._shop_redirect
Yes, these are gorgeous! Thanks!
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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-28-2017, 10:00 PM
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Yes, I have several beaded 5' leashes for Kodi (my favorite length for heeling with dogs the size of Havanese) but Panda hasn't "earned" one yet. She does have a pretty, beaded (conformation) show lead. You need 6 ft least for such a small number of classes that I don't tend to buy leashes just for that... I just use whatever ones I have around.
That's interesting. I always thought that the 6 ft was too short. But perhaps it's too long? I run into trouble for instance when practicing changing sides. We were getting use to walking a board first on the left and then on the right. Chi Chi does great off leash but on leash when I have to switch hands , she ducks because the slack in the leash hits her head (which she hates). Same with finish in obedience.
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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-28-2017, 11:45 PM
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That's interesting. I always thought that the 6 ft was too short. But perhaps it's too long? I run into trouble for instance when practicing changing sides. We were getting use to walking a board first on the left and then on the right. Chi Chi does great off leash but on leash when I have to switch hands , she ducks because the slack in the leash hits her head (which she hates). Same with finish in obedience.
Layla does the same thing and even hates the weight of a heavier snap on her leash (she's finicky ). That's why I like the kangaroo braided ones from Etsy. I order them with the the smallest snap (which is plenty strong for a Havanese) and they are very thin and lightweight. That has helped with her ducking, but she still walks sideways when I leave it so she has to drag it. Like Karen, I love my 5' one best, but have the 6' one for competition Obedience. The 4' one I ordered was kinda a mistake. It might be better for a taller dog, but I don't like it.

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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks so much for taking the time to explain this. I can see where I'm making some mistakes with her. I really like the video of the motivational heeling with Kodi. He also heels beautifully! I see where I need to shorten our heeling sessions and be more creative and spontaneous to keep her guessing. I love what you said in that last paragraph about never training heeling with a leash and making heeling the most FUN ever!

Also, that little, Miss Panda and her tail in the chin heeling video is the cutest ever! She is just sweetness through and through!
She may look sweet, but there is a LOT of "spice" in that little "naughty girl"!
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post #16 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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That's interesting. I always thought that the 6 ft was too short. But perhaps it's too long? I run into trouble for instance when practicing changing sides. We were getting use to walking a board first on the left and then on the right. Chi Chi does great off leash but on leash when I have to switch hands , she ducks because the slack in the leash hits her head (which she hates). Same with finish in obedience.
While the only general requirement for the leash in AKC obedience and rally is that it be either cloth or leather, and long enough that there is slack in the leash when heeling, in practice, NO ONE uses a leash longer than 6 ft. Not only is there no need, but it is hard to manage all the excess. If the dog is in proper heel position, even with the SMALLEST dog, you'll have a good portion of a 6 ft leash rolled up in your hand. You need a 6 ft leash in AKC Beginner Novice and CDSP Starter Novice because both those classes require the handler to move (away from the dog) to the end of the 6 ft leash for the exam. In Novice whether it's AKC obedience, AKC rally, CDSP obedience, whatever, the length of the leash is totally up to the handler, as long as they are able to maintain a slack leash. (tight leashes, even if momentary, cost points, and if it is constantly tight, is an NQ in any venue)

I'm not sure what you are doing that requires you to change sides... This isn't something we do in formal obedience EVER, and I've only heard of it in Rally-free, but at levels where the dog wouldn't be on leash anyway. If you are talking about agility, agility is a TOTALLY off-leash sport. I know that some training places have people start introduction to agility equipment on-leash, it's not a way I like to start. If my dog isn't pretty darned good at sticking with me, s/he isn't ready for agility IMO. If I have a puppy who MIGHT wander off in the early stages of agility, I attach a light-weight string to their collar (not a leash, because I don't want anything that can get caught on anything) so that I can quickly step on it if the dog thinks about leaving.

And yes, to go in the ring in Novice (or Beginner Novice) in obedience, you DO have to get used to working on leash again for heeling. And a big part of that is the HANDLER learning how to avoid interfering with the dog with the leash. But you can finish either way in obedience, and if you finish left, there is no reason to tangle with the leash. Rally Novice is a little trickier, because there ARE moves where the dog needs to go around behind the handler, which requires the handler to switch leash hands behind the back. You also need to walk around your dog holding the leash, but at least you can se what you are doing, so should be able to avoid hitting your dog with the leash.

For the moves where you have to pass the leash behind your back, I suggest using the lightest weight leash possible, so it is the least unpleasant experience possible, and use tons and tons and TONS of cookies as you practice MANY times, so that they learn to associate the movement with something good. Then they will learn to ignore the silly leash! Remember, you ONLY use the leash in the ring for the very beginning levels of obedience and rally. After that, the leash is just a way to get from the crating area to the ring. The moment you step through the ring gate, you give up your leash anyway!
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post #17 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Layla's Mom View Post
Layla does the same thing and even hates the weight of a heavier snap on her leash (she's finicky ). That's why I like the kangaroo braided ones from Etsy. I order them with the the smallest snap (which is plenty strong for a Havanese) and they are very thin and lightweight. That has helped with her ducking, but she still walks sideways when I leave it so she has to drag it. Like Karen, I love my 5' one best, but have the 6' one for competition Obedience. The 4' one I ordered was kinda a mistake. It might be better for a taller dog, but I don't like it.
Try the parachute cord ones rather than the braided kangaroo... They are even lighter, and you can still get them with pretty beads if you want them. They aren't as stiff as the kangaroo, and are MUCH cheaper, even for the pretty, beaded custom ones. Or... lightest of all, Petco has a line of VERY thin, flat leashes that are super cheap... I think they are under $3. I get these in black, and remove the handle loop as my drag lines. But they are so small and cheap, I always keep a spare in each car, and also use these for those occasions were I need a 6' leash in competition.
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post #18 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Layla's Mom View Post
Layla does the same thing and even hates the weight of a heavier snap on her leash (she's finicky ). That's why I like the kangaroo braided ones from Etsy. I order them with the the smallest snap (which is plenty strong for a Havanese) and they are very thin and lightweight. That has helped with her ducking, but she still walks sideways when I leave it so she has to drag it. Like Karen, I love my 5' one best, but have the 6' one for competition Obedience. The 4' one I ordered was kinda a mistake. It might be better for a taller dog, but I don't like it.
Ok I'm sold. I'm ordering one today. Oops just saw Karen's cheaper option. LOL
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post #19 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 09:30 AM
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I'm not sure what you are doing that requires you to change sides... This isn't something we do in formal obedience EVER, and I've only heard of it in Rally-free, but at levels where the dog wouldn't be on leash anyway. If you are talking about agility, agility is a TOTALLY off-leash sport. I know that some training places have people start introduction to agility equipment on-leash, it's not a way I like to start. If my dog isn't pretty darned good at sticking with me, s/he isn't ready for agility IMO. If I have a puppy who MIGHT wander off in the early stages of agility, I attach a light-weight string to their collar (not a leash, because I don't want anything that can get caught on anything) so that I can quickly step on it if the dog thinks about leaving.
Yes, it is beginner's agility. And since she is really good at staying with me, she is allowed off-leash for just about all of the exercises, but I thought maybe it was a skill that we would need for other purposes. Good to know it's not all that important right now. I am going to try your suggestions regarding a lighter weight though. The leash we have is no fun. Thanks for always being so willing to share. It's appreciated!
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post #20 of 39 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by krandall View Post
While the only general requirement for the leash in AKC obedience and rally is that it be either cloth or leather, and long enough that there is slack in the leash when heeling, in practice, NO ONE uses a leash longer than 6 ft. Not only is there no need, but it is hard to manage all the excess. If the dog is in proper heel position, even with the SMALLEST dog, you'll have a good portion of a 6 ft leash rolled up in your hand. You need a 6 ft leash in AKC Beginner Novice and CDSP Starter Novice because both those classes require the handler to move (away from the dog) to the end of the 6 ft leash for the exam. In Novice whether it's AKC obedience, AKC rally, CDSP obedience, whatever, the length of the leash is totally up to the handler, as long as they are able to maintain a slack leash. (tight leashes, even if momentary, cost points, and if it is constantly tight, is an NQ in any venue)

I'm not sure what you are doing that requires you to change sides... This isn't something we do in formal obedience EVER, and I've only heard of it in Rally-free, but at levels where the dog wouldn't be on leash anyway. If you are talking about agility, agility is a TOTALLY off-leash sport. I know that some training places have people start introduction to agility equipment on-leash, it's not a way I like to start. If my dog isn't pretty darned good at sticking with me, s/he isn't ready for agility IMO. If I have a puppy who MIGHT wander off in the early stages of agility, I attach a light-weight string to their collar (not a leash, because I don't want anything that can get caught on anything) so that I can quickly step on it if the dog thinks about leaving.

And yes, to go in the ring in Novice (or Beginner Novice) in obedience, you DO have to get used to working on leash again for heeling. And a big part of that is the HANDLER learning how to avoid interfering with the dog with the leash. But you can finish either way in obedience, and if you finish left, there is no reason to tangle with the leash. Rally Novice is a little trickier, because there ARE moves where the dog needs to go around behind the handler, which requires the handler to switch leash hands behind the back. You also need to walk around your dog holding the leash, but at least you can se what you are doing, so should be able to avoid hitting your dog with the leash.

For the moves where you have to pass the leash behind your back, I suggest using the lightest weight leash possible, so it is the least unpleasant experience possible, and use tons and tons and TONS of cookies as you practice MANY times, so that they learn to associate the movement with something good. Then they will learn to ignore the silly leash! Remember, you ONLY use the leash in the ring for the very beginning levels of obedience and rally. After that, the leash is just a way to get from the crating area to the ring. The moment you step through the ring gate, you give up your leash anyway!

Geez, I need to read my rules more carefully! Never made the distinction of only requiring a 6' leash for BN Ob. Always assumed it was the Novice Ob also. Actually, it's a good thing...no more leash getting caught on my knee while heeling. Thanks, Karen!
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