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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Smile Here is Ollie!


Our family adopted a new member--Ollie. On Tuesday, Jerry from Havanique brought two dogs to our home (a male and a female). We feel in love with the male so we kept him. We named him Ollie.

Ollie is adjusting well. He had many potty accidents on Tuesday; but on Friday, Ollie just had one accident and yesterday he was 100%--all of his potty was outside! The family is quite happy about that (specially my husband). Ollie has learned to go up and down the stairs and he has learned to sit on command. We think that he is a bright fellow.

Unfortunately, Ollie came with a very bad ear infection. We are taking care of him.

On Saturday, I was showering my daughter when Ollie jumped right in the shower...SO...we ended up by giving him a shower. To my disbelief he really enjoyed it. He was very relaxed in my arms as a shampooed and rinsed him. He enjoyed being cuddled by my husband until it was time to blow dry him. He did not even mind being blow dried. He got very frisky after all of this grooming.

Ollie is very sweet, friendly, playful, and loving. This morning my 6-year old daughter had so much fun with Ollie--they ran all over the house and after that were both tired.

We are looking forward to a happy life with Ollie.


1. How often do you bathe your Havanese?
2. Do you groom him/her yourself?
3. What type of treats do you buy them (I only want natural stuff)?
4. When you go out, do you leave him/her free or do you limit where he/she stays in your home? The first day, we left him in the kitchen but after he started controlling his potty we have left him free around the house when we are home. He has not been alone much—when we are at work our aupair is home (except when she is running errands).

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 02:10 PM
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to the Forum Nina and Ollie! You will have years and years of fun ahead of you.

As to your questions, we'll all probably give you different answers. Here are mine:

1. I bathe Maddie once a week or every 10 days, as she has to be kept clean for therapy work. Plus, her coat gets more mats if she is dirty.

2. I groom Maddie myself in the fall and winter, but usually take her to a groomer in mid Spring for a shorter cut (about 3" long) as it gets hot in the summer.

3. Maddie has a food intolerance to wheat (which is in most dog biscuits). I only use home made microwaved sweet potato slices and occasionally some freeze dried liver treats that I buy (Dr. Becker's Bites).

4. Maddie has free roam of the house when we leave but always seems to stay on top of a chair by the front window watching for our return. I don't know how old Ollie is, but if he's a puppy, I wouldn't let him have free reign. I got Maddie around 8 months of age and started in small increments (like 2-3 minutes) of being gone. I gradually increased the time when she showed that she was reliable and wouldn't do any damage. I wouldn't hurry this process, as you could come home to a disaster, especially if he has separation anxiety.

Enjoy Ollie and post lots of pictures of the little guy!

Jeanne (Mom to Maddie)
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 02:35 PM
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Nina Welcome to the Forum! Congratulations on your new baby Ollie! You will find out from other members we love photos of the new puppies ~ please take some photos of your new darling so we can all see him!!

I bath my three girls twice a month except when I am showing them then more often, but on an average every two weeks. I brush my girls myself and groom them myself except for my oldest one that is not in show coat ~ she is in a puppy cut. You may want to read my thread from yesterday on the bad injury my Kohana got from the groomer. I would try to groom Ollie yourself and Jerry should be able to teach you on how to do so. Jerry is wonderful with grooming and has several videos on grooming. You have the best teacher to show you all the grooming and training. I would ask Jerry how often he baths his Havanese and go with that.

I feed my girls "Wellness Just For Puppy Treats" ~ they are Holistic Soft Bits made with lamb, salmon, and whole fruits and veggies you can see! They contain No Meat By-Products, Corn, Wheat, Soy, Dairy, Artificial Colors or Flavors and my girls love them!

My girls have two x-pen set ups with beds, a crate with the door off, toys, food and water, and a place for them to potty when no one is home. Usually someone is home so they all get to play throughout most of the house. All three were crate trained as young puppies and they still love to go in their crates on a daily basis. My two younger girls get pretty much full run of the house now - today is their birthday and they are a year old! I would suggest not letting Ollie have full use of the entire house and let him work up to that honor. I have found they are more secure when you set boundries. Try an ex-pen set up and let him have a place of his own. I would let him have his crate in your bedroom and let him sleep in your room at night. My girls all sleep in our bedroom ~ one on my pillow (she's almost 3), and the two little girls in their crates (one with the door open and one with the door shut at night).

I'm sure you'll get a lot of advice from others on the forum of what works best for their family. Have a super good time with Ollie ~ you sound like you are doing great!!

~Libby, Kohana, Pebble & Piper ~

Lanai Havanese
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 02:50 PM
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Congrats on your new addition. Please post pictures!!!

I have a dehydrator and make my own homemade chicken jerky treats. There are quite a few of us who do this. I also give mine Charlie Bears, and freeze dried liver treats.

I am not very good in the bathing department. Mine go to the groomer every 6 weeks and usually have one bath in between (unless they roll in something gross, then it is more).

I keep my boys in the kitchen and den area where we spend all of our time. Brady is fine to leave out, but the little guy is 6 months and still can't handle too much space. We are always in the kitchen/den so they are always with us. When we are not home, they are in seperate crates. We only leave them for a few hours a day.

**Karen, Mom to Brady, Dugan, and Devon
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 02:52 PM
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Hi Nina,
1. How often do you bathe your Havanese?
I bath my about every 2-3 weeks.

2. Do you groom him/her yourself?
I do groom both my dogs....bath, brush and dry, takes about 45 minutes a dog.

3. What type of treats do you buy them (I only want natural stuff)?
I make all my dogs treats...beware of dog treats they are say healthy, but some are not. The only thing I buy is Flossies chews from Merrick for the dogs.

4. When you go out, do you leave him/her free or do you limit where he/she stays in your home?
My dogs are kept in the kitchen with gates. I would not give them free run of the house...Missy would get into something
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 02:59 PM
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Wow- does Ollie look like Pixie!!
I definitely do not try to groom her myself -she goes to the "beauty parlor" about every 6weeks. I do give her baths about every 10-14 days, brushed everyday. I too give the Wellness puppy treats, natural balance roll-a-rounds and sweet potato and venison biscuits, simply sweet potato chips. I'm a stay at home mom and she's rarely alone, but I did buy 2 ex pens and built a pen with a top. I discovered that she's a climber and scaled the gate when I put her in the bathroom . This way I know she's safe if we need to go out. She is perfectly content in there and has plenty of space and everything she needs, including her potty. I know she's happier in there than running loose, wondering where we are (at least for now-she's 8 months old). She even goes in there when we're home.
Welcome to the forum!

Beth and Pixie Puff
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 03:55 PM
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Adorable...with some crate training tips that helped me.

I grew up in Vienna, VA. I went to James Madison High and George Mason University! I love Fairfax!

Welcome to the forum...

1. How often do you bathe your Havanese?
When they were little, not very often as they didn't go outside. Riki is a male and pees a lot, so I wash his inner thighs every couple of days and sometimes wash both of their paws. I use a wash cloth on their faces daily to get out the food on their faces after eating.

I bath them every other week now...unless Riki gets into mud. I am now using Neem shampoo which doesn't have soap. It makes them smell really nice and does not dry out the skin or coat.

2. Do you groom him/her yourself?

Riki was professionally bathed a couple of times and professionally groomed once. He was upset at being in the crates waiting for me with the other dogs barking and would poop and ruin the works. His first groom was a disaster and he looked more like a poodle than a I cried. I do it all now myself and save money too.

3. What type of treats do you buy them (I only want natural stuff)?
Natural Salmon Treats, nothing with meat bi-proucts. They loved the dry chicken but it was made in China and could potentially be toxic.

4. When you go out, do you leave him/her free or do you limit where he/she stays in your home? The first day, we left him in the kitchen but after he started controlling his potty we have left him free around the house when we are home. He has not been alone much—when we are at work our aupair is home (except when she is running errands).

I am able to leave them with free range at one year or so as they were fully potty trained and had a doggy door. Before that they were confined to one room that also had a doggy door to it. Riki was trustworthy but Daisy is not at times. I always take them for a walk before I go out, and treat like crazy every single time they go outside on their own from the third floor where our living room is.

I recommend good potty training from the very first or you will have trouble the work now and have more freedom later! You will be glad you did.

I didn't just get havanese, I got a lifestyle!
Loving Havanese since 2003
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 03:56 PM
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An article that really helped me!

BY: GLORIA S. DITTMAN (Havanese owner and dog lover extraordinaire)

New puppy owners often worry about the best way to housebreak the puppy or how to keep the puppy from damaging the household furnishings or how to keep the puppy safe when they are out of the house and puppy is left alone. All of these problems can be eliminated with the use of a crate.

Using a crate is NOT cruel. It is viewed as by the dog as a den, which dogs in their wild state slept in for hundreds of thousands of years. Modern dog maintains the “den instinct” which is why use of a crate is so effective in housebreaking. A dog will NOT soil where it sleeps. This is a throwback to the days when dogs were predators in the wild and needed safe places to sleep and rear their young. If they eliminated in the den, other predators would seek them out through the scent and prey upon the young and infirm. Thus, dogs will not soil their sleeping quarters IF they can possibly avoid doing so.

The trick is to make the sleeping area small enough so modern dog cannot use one end as a bathroom and the other end as a bedroom! A crate should be large enough so the dog can lie down and turn around in a tight circle. If it is big enough to lie down in, it will be big enough to sit in. Crates can cost anywhere from $30 to $200 and up, depending on your budget. If you have a puppy that will grow into a large dog, I suggest buying a full-size crate and using a piece of plywood or other material to block off a section for puppy. This can be expanded as puppy grows.

CRATES MUST NEVER BE USED TO PUNISH! The dog has to look on the crate as his special place where he is safe and happy. Many breeders crate train their puppies from the time they leave the whelping box. If you are purchasing your puppy from a breeder (STRONGLY RECOMMENDED!) ask if the puppy has been introduced to the crate. Before bringing puppy home take a blanket or towel to the breeder and ask to put this item in with the litter at night. The blanket or towel will then be permeated with the litter/mother scent and will make those first few nights we all dread much easier.

When puppy comes home it should take all of its naps in the crate and sleep there at night. The crate should also be used ANY time the humans in the house are too busy to keep an eye on puppy. The remainder of the time, the puppy should be in the company of its’ new owners, being cuddled, played with, socialized and generally reassured that it is loved and cared for in its new home.

Keep in mind that puppies MUST relieve themselves BEFORE and within 15 minutes AFTER EATING, IMMEDIATELY UPON DRINKING ANY WATER, and AFTER PLAY AND IMMEDIATELY UPON WAKING. Take pup outside according to the schedule at first. NEVER PUT PUPPY OUT BY HIMSELF! It just doesn’t work. Let puppy walk where it wants and as soon as it relieves itself outside PRAISE IT! Bring puppy back in when you are SURE it has finished. Sometimes you know puppy has to go but puppy is fooling around. WAIT! Don’t bring puppy in before it has done its business – that is just asking for an accident and puppy will be happy to oblige!

Each time you put puppy in the crate PRAISE IT and give it a treat. NEVER let puppy out of the crate when it is making noise such as whining, crying or barking. Correct it by saying “NO! BAD PUPPY!” And only when it has quieted should you let it out, with a “GOOD PUPPY!” If you let puppy out while it is making noise you are teaching it that making noise will get it attention and companionship, which is what it wants in the first place! This mixed message will be particularly difficult to straighten out in the middle of the night, when YOU want to sleep and puppy wants to PARTY! So be firm right from the start. Let puppy out ONLY if it is quiet and NEVER once you have put it in the crate for the night.

Remember that puppy is going to be missing its Mom and littermates NO MATTER WHERE IT SLEEPS and this includes YOUR bed, which I don’t recommend unless you sleep on rubber sheets in a boat! So, keeping in mind that puppy will be upset whether he is in the kitchen, piddling on the floor and chewing the cabinets, or in the crate, PUT HIM IN THE CRATE! At least he will only be making lots of noise and not redecorating your house in Early Destructo style! Many people put the crate in their bedroom where they can reassure puppy during the night. Some people prefer to put the crate, for the first few nights, where they won’t hear puppy crying. There is nothing wrong with either plan although if puppy persists in crying if placed in another room, putting the crate next to the bed where puppy can know you are near will most likely soothe the puppy and make crate training easier on you both.

However, once you have put puppy in the crate for the night, do NOT let him out unless you are fairly certain he has to eliminate. If puppy starts to cry shortly after being placed in the crate and you know it has just eliminated, give it a verbal correction at once (NO! BAD PUPPY! QUIET!). Repeat if necessary until puppy settles down. If you let puppy out of the crate every time it cries, it will never learn to accept the crate.

When preparing puppy for being crated all night it is best not to feed puppy or give anything to drink after about 6-7pm, unless it is very hot outside. It takes about 2-4 hours for a puppy to digest food and water. Exercise puppy LOTS in the evening. Wear the puppy out. Take puppy out as late as possible (11pm works well). Take your time for this last outing of the night. Be absolutely certain puppy is EMPTY before putting it in the crate. Put puppy in the crate with towels, the security blanket and the old stand-bys, a loud ticking clock, or a hot water bottle, or a stuffed animal with eyes, nose, etc. removed first. Praise puppy, say goodnight and go to bed.

As a general rule DO NOT GO BACK TO PUPPY UNTIL ATL EAST 3:30 OR 4AM. By then puppy probably will have to go out for real. Puppy bladders and bowels are just not mature enough to hold it much longer than that. However, some puppies simply cannot go longer then 2-3 hours, even at night, without urinating. If the puppy persists in crying and has been crated for at least 2 hours, assume it has to eliminate and take it outside. Keep these sessions short and quiet. DO NOT socialize with the puppy and once it has eliminated, take it right back inside and crate it again. The early mornings come with puppy territory, like a 2am feedings and babies. By about 5 months (or before) the puppy’s bladder should start to mature and puppy will start sleeping later. But for now all you can do is grin and bear it!

When you take puppy out at the uncivilized hour do so with a minimum of conversation. Puppy should know that this is NOT playtime. When he does his business outside PRAISE HIM as usual and bring him right back in, put him back in the crate and go back to bed. Don’t go back to him now, either. Puppy should be fine now until you are ready to get up at your regular time. Just remember: Once you have put puppy in the crate don’t go back to him for at least 2 hours. If you do, you are teaching him that making lots of noise will get him what he wants – your company. Puppy must learn that nights are for sleeping and his sleeping place is the crate. Once he learns this lesson – and it will only take about 2-4 nights – he will begin to look on the crate as his special place.

Eventually, as he becomes more accustomed to it, he will look on the crate as a refuge where he can get away from running kids, crazy cats, out-of-control vacuum cleaners or whatever inhabits his little bit of the world with him. One day you will look for puppy and find him, curled up in the crate where he went by himself to catch a few zzz’s! Once you have used the crate properly – NEVER TO PUNISH! – Your house will be safe from “puppy destructo raids” and your puppy will be safe from the myriad dangers that lie in wait for lonely, bored and curious puppies such as: chicken bones or other inedible “treats” from the garbage; chocolate left in reach of dogs which is a poison to dogs; electric wires that could electrocute a puppy if chewed; cleaning solutions; toilet bowl cleaners; poisonous house plants; small toys or socks that could be swallowed…. I could go on and on!

So please, use that crate! You will wonder how you ever survived without one and your puppy will have a SAFE place to be when left alone. Please remember that puppies are like babies when it comes to bladder and bowel control. Don’t ask puppy to “hold it” longer than is physically comfortable for puppy and try not to leave a dog crated longer than 5-6 hours at a time during the day if you can avoid doing so.


·· Copyright 1989-2004 Gloria S. Dittman All Rights Reserved Any Reproduction, in whole or in part, in any medium whatsoever, without the express permission of the author is strictly prohibited. For reprint information and permission please contact the author via e-mail at [email protected].

I didn't just get havanese, I got a lifestyle!
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 03:57 PM
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Housetraining tips that work!

Gloria Dittman gave me this, we did it and it worked. I wasn't as vigilant with Daisy, and she has accidents...

How To Housebreak
Gloria S. Dittmann (c)

This article is meant as a companion piece to my article
HOW TO CRATE TRAIN. The assumption is that those who
are reading this article are crate training their puppies,
as the crate is an integral part of proper housetraining.

When housebreaking your puppy, two facts must be kept in
mind. The first that that although the need to keep the den
clean is instinctive, the puppy has no idea that your entire
house is now his den. It is your responsibility to show
puppy that the entire house is now the puppy's den and the
puppy is expected to keep the den clean.

The next fact is that puppies, when it comes to bladder and
bowel control, are not much different from human infants. Puppies have
small bladders and bowels at first and virtually NO muscle
control. While a puppy may intellectually understand the
housebreaking philosophy within 2-3 weeks, his body takes a
lot longer to mature to the point where puppy has the
physical control needed to be clean in the house under all
conditions. Do not ask, nor expect, a puppy to 'hold it'
longer than is physically possible for that puppy.

A 3 month old puppy is virtually incapable of going for
6-8 hours at a time without eliminating even once. If you
have a full-time job that will keep you out and the puppy crated for
prolonged periods of time (longer than 3-4 hours), you
should make arrangements for someone to come in mid-day to
let puppy out for some exercise and to be able to eliminate.
If this is not possible, you can use an exercise pen (a
free-standing playpen for dogs) attached to the crate or you
may place the crate inside the playpen. This
way, the puppy can sleep in the crate and then exit into the
exercise pen to get some exercise and to eliminate. Be sure
to place the pen and crate away from walls or
draperies...puppies LOVE to chew on moldings, plaster and
drapery fabric!

Now, when puppy first comes home, remember
that puppies MUST eliminate within 15 minutes after eating,
immediately after drinking water, immediately upon waking,
when excited (when company comes, for example or puppy is
startled by a sudden, loud noise) and during and after play sessions.
Be sure to take puppy out at these times until you learn
your puppy's individual needs and schedule. Also keep in
mind that it takes approximately 2-3 hours for a puppy to
digest a meal. If you feed your puppy breakfast at 7am and
then crate it, it is going to have to eliminate by 11am or
noon at the latest. Keep this in mind when planning your
crating sessions.

Now, until puppy begins to understand what
is expected of him in terms of housebreaking, it is up to
the human family members to keep a very close eye on puppy.
Be sure puppy is always with you except when puppy is
crated. Puppies will usually give a signal to indicate they
have to eliminate. They will walk with their noses to the
ground while sniffing for a likely spot; walk in a circle;
get 'that look' in their eyes that tells you what is coming.
Close observation of your puppy will soon let you know what
your pup's individual signal is. When you see it...get puppy
outside as quickly as possible! Take puppy to the same spot
in the yard each time you take him out, and use a key word
command such as "DUTY! Do your DUTY!" or whatever word you
choose to use each time puppy goes. This way, he will begin
to associate the word with the action and before long, he
will eliminate on command.

When puppy eliminates, praise him! LOTS of praise!
Never let puppy out alone to eliminate!
He needs you there to keep him company and to praise him as
soon as he performs properly. Sometimes it may take puppy a
while to sniff around and explore before he goes. BE
PATIENT! Too often people give up after about 15 minutes,
come in and whammo! Puppy immediately goes on the floor or
carpeting! You are just not giving puppy enough time
outside. Puppies have virtually no attention span at this
age and their memory spans are non-existent as well. They
need some gentle encouragement to keep their minds on what
they should be doing. Try not to make this time playtime as
this will also distract puppy. If you know puppy has to go but
puppy is fooling around and you run out of patience, come back
inside and place puppy in the crate for 10-15 minutes. Then carry
puppy back outside to the usual spot and wait again. Chances are,
puppy will do his business this time, however if he fails to eliminate
once again, put him back in the crate for another 10-15 minutes and
then take him back outside and try again.

If puppy does have an
accident in the house and you do not catch him in the act, do
NOT punish him! Even if you come in 30 seconds later, let it go. As previously
stated, puppies have little or no memory span at this age. A
puppy will not associate a scolding or spanking (and it is
NEVER necessary to spank a puppy for having an accident or for any other reason!)with what happened 30 seconds or 30 minutes ago. Oh, he will
act guilty and contrite, but that is only because he is
reacting to your body language. Dogs are masters at reading
the most subtle body language signals we give off almost
subconsciously. This is how dogs communicate with each
other, so it is not surprising that they use this talent to
'read' us as well!

Rubbing a puppy's nose in his mess is an
old wives tale which does NOT work. All this does is
confuse the puppy and possibly cause him to resent you for
what he thinks of as your unreasonable behavior. If you do
catch the puppy about to have an accident or having one,
immediately growl "NO! BAD PUPPY!!", pick him UP and rush
him outside to a spot he is used to going. Now, he is going
to be very startled by this unexpected development and will
temporarily stop what he was doing or about to do. Just be
there with him and quietly, in a friendly tone of voice,
give the word command you are using. Once he does settle
down and finish what he started, praise him lavishly! Then
clean the area he soiled inside with a good enzyme

These products use enzymes to literally
eat the odor-causing molecules found in all organic matter.
Conventional cleaners such as Lysol, etc. use perfumes to
cover up the old urine scent...but only to human noses!
Canine schnozzes have no trouble at all detecting old urine
sites. Use of an enzyme product stops this cyclical behavior
(going back to the old site to eliminate) by completely
eliminating the old scents.

By closely following this program, your puppy should have
the basics of housebreaking down within a few weeks, although
each puppy is an individual and will progress according to his own internal
body schedule. If your puppy is having trouble with VERY
frequent urination or frequent, loose stool, check with your
vet. Any time a dog's bladder and/or bowel habits change
suddenly and radically and stay that way for longer than
about 24 hours, you should check with your vet as well.

And please remember that your puppy is really not much different
from a human infant. Like a baby, a puppy has to be mature
enough, mentally and physically, in order to completely
control itself in the house. Be patient with that new
pup...he has a lot of learning and growing to do in a very
short period of time! Love and lots of patience will have
that pup turning into the best dog you've ever owned in no
time at all!

(c) Copyright 1995 - 2008 Gloria S. Dittmann. All Rights
Reserved. Any reproduction, in whole or in
part, in any medium without the express permission of the
author is strictly prohibited. For reprint information and
permission, please contact the author via e-mail at [email protected]

I didn't just get havanese, I got a lifestyle!
Loving Havanese since 2003
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-25-2009, 06:29 PM
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Hi Nina,
Welcome to the forum! Here are the answers to your questions.
1. How often do you bathe your Havanese? Normally, I bathe them every 10 days, give or take a day or two. If they get extra dirty or roll in something, it's more often.
2. Do you groom him/her yourself? I groom the myself, because I have 3 and it cost way too much! I'm also a freelance makeup and hair artist, so it helps.
3. What type of treats do you buy them (I only want natural stuff)? All natural stuff here. Nothing made in China too! Brady's mom turned me in dehydrating chicken. The pups love it!
4. When you go out, do you leave him/her free or do you limit where he/she stays in your home? My pups have the run of the house. The only room I keep closed is the office, because of all the power cords. They are fully housebroken and have a dog door. Before they were housebroken, they were limited as to where they could roam, even when I was home. When we go to my boyfriends house, they have run of the main areas, but we keep the bedroom doors shut.

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